Thursday, June 26, 2008


Bust it down Shaun - my buddy
Home Affairs/Licensing dept. in SA is an aborted horrible affair, the drama I went through to get a new license disk was haaa-uuuuuggggeeee! Never fear, I am all licensed up and rolling legally again.

This morning, I wake up for my morning surf, a chilly sexy sunrise dawned and I was stoked. I stroke up into the lineup, and sit next to this old dude. "What’s up", I say, "Hey", he says.... (some light goes off in my head)...Holy shit, that was Shaun Thompson, my boyhood surfing hero, sweet melons of fiery heavens. Don’t you just love being surprised; it’s the coolest times, YAY YAY YAY. Now I don’t get awed easily, I don’t care much for schleb culture, it’s all a veneer anyway, but this was cool.

He has this cool new movie that he is promoting its called "Bustin' Down the Door", its all about Surfing in the 70's, now that’s what I am all about, I dig the retro art and ways of surfing, it had a rebel/innovative quality to it, sadly which has been lost in the commercial push of the sport today, you can call me a hippy purist of Surfing and I will gladly wear the tag. Not that you guys care (hey DT, dig that you read and comment on my Blog - big up - let me know if understand any of this poor).

So was cool, meeting my hero.

S.

2 comments:

DT said...

Thanks for the big up S. - But I actually do enjoy reading your posts ;-)I am envious that you get to do something you love every morning - it is your own place in the world!

Have a brilliant weekend!

Sunrise Chip n' Cheez said...

Ta' DT, When I hit the surf, I forget everything else, it just me and the big blue, cliche' but true! I had a v. cool w/end.

Hope you had a brill w/end too!