I tell you something is in the water! As a surfer, we take chances every time we hit the sea for a session; we fend against the elements/currents/things from the deep... (Da dum da dum)/smacking into waves, sandbanks, rocks, other surfers and your own surfboard. Although the "stoke" is all worth the dangers, gliding down the wave, cutting a big turn, or getting a tube really is the best thing in the whole world. Although this weekend, some tragedies occurred, which makes you think of the dangers that we put ourselves at, for doing the things we love!
Two heavy things happened:
1) My friend ST klapped his head on his board, his board knocked him unconscious and he went under for 5 minutes (5 MINUTES!!!!!!), a fellow surfer pulled him out and resuscitated him for 30 minutes, until he came back from the light. He went into a coma. HEAVY, we all preying for ST.
2)A surfer I know, pulled into a barrel and got his head knocked on the sandbank and fractured his C4 vertebra, he is going for an Op this morning, so our prays are with him to.
Hells Teeth, this is some heavy shit, although let me tell you one thing I am comforted by life's stability. Where I had lost respect for the sea, I realize needs to be respected as with others in my life, not to take anything for granted: my health, love, family, friends, wealth (well what little I have) etc.
So rock out some love for whoever knocks your socks off, cause you never know when a surfboard or sandbank may jump out at you!
S.
No comments:
Post a Comment